notes from baja – la paz, second night
March 15
Night falls fast and cool. Walking in La Paz again felt like home, a familiar city welcome. Dinner at the Garden Grill, a small kitchen, a pretty backyard terrace with rope lights and palms that rustled in the wind. German family at the next table eating a large fish (self-caught). Friendly waiter explains the menu to us. We have fish with mango and fish with amaretto. Waited a long time. Sam had to run back to the car to get our sweaters.
•
Handsome cook – he comes out to set flans on fire for the German family, pouring flaming liquor down a twist of whole orange peeling.
•
A plump woman arrives, with a very odd look – red blouse with white embroidery, long hair pulled up tight at the crown of her head, made-up eyes slanting upward. She speaks Spanish to the cook and waiter, and bustles around for a long time setting up equipment for karaoke singing. Her voice turns out to be surprisingly pleasant, slightly accented, perfectly amplified, tones matching the flaming liquor.
•
Hotel Reforma
Too tired to be effective at finding a hotel, we drive around in La Paz and make a really bad choice – the “Reform School Hotel” – which seems to be run by collective of punks – it keeps them off the street. We struggle to communicate with the young man at the desk. $30 with a deposit of $20 to be returned in the morning. The room is horrendous; it’s only plus is air conditioning that drowns out any noise. Nevertheless we fall asleep – Sam right away, me after fearful imaginings – wake up at dawn and leave for Todos Santos.